Plus, you then have a legitimate reason for having a hammer in the kitchen drawer.
Pshaw. As if I need a legitimate reason for that.
5951 publicly visible posts • joined 8 Oct 2009
Loading/unloading a container that's sitting on the ground is not too difficult; it's just a 20cm or so threshold that you need to negotiate. So, a long enough ramp or a couple of pallet movers can do that job. But getting the loaded container(s) full of System/360.on and off the truck would probably require a more serious crane than those you might find on such a truck itself.
When we moved we would be in temporary housing for a few months, so we moved the essential stuff there by box van, stuffed the rest in a 20' and 10' container and had them moved to a temporary storage location. That crane on the truck was straining to lift the 20' one (which may well have been caused by books being a fair part of its contents). I don't want to gamble on such a crane being able to lift a container loaded with some big iron gear.
The benefit of using containers is that they can load a big piece, tetris all kinds of boxes and smaller stuff around it, then the next big piece, etc. Plus they can construct a supporting frame in place for the larger/higher pieces wedging them against the container walls. Have the container delivered, take a couple of days putting the gear into it (our packing the boxes, and the boxes into the containers for the move was done over two weeks or so), then have the shipper pick it up, possibly with the assistance of an auxiliary crane. That way the activities that require the most hands, brains and dedication can be done during a weekend, while the shipper drops off and picks up the container on weekdays with just one of the team supervising.
They may actually want a haulier that has trucks (of the appropriate capacity) with a truck-mounted forklift..
We've had a couple of deliveries of construction stuff for our house, multiple full pallets of cement and building blocks for instance, and they all came by truck with one of those picking the load off the truck bed and putting it on our garage path.
Trucks carrying those forklifts will probably be curtain-sided, not hard-sided, but as long as there are plenty tiedown attachment points (and they tend to be) I don't see that being a problem.
Those would be GFCI's, Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters, also called RCDs, Residual Current Detectors. Those do trip on 30mA leakage current, but that would happen only when something allowing that leakage current to start flowing from the faulty (live) ground pins to actual ground. Until that, the appliance would just sit there.
And while private housing built over the past 40 years or so will have GFCIs installed, I'm not sure about offices and industrial buildings. Note also that big_D mentions his office being in Germany, where building codes may be different again.
Sufficient current to blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker, commonly 16A, occasionally 10A or in few cases even less but still not below 2A.
With a non-grounded device the (now live) ground prongs in the socket weren't going to be part of the circuit anyway. Look up pictures of a Schuko socket and an Euro plug for enlightenment.
Grounded devices would have their chassis become live, but internally this won't be connected to the proper live and neutral circuits anywhere, so on its own there won't be current flowing from that live chassis to (proper) ground. A PC with LRF[0] sitting on a wooden or vinyl-covered desk will not even cause sufficient leakage current to trip a GFCI if one is present. Touching that PC's metal chassis will cause a small current to flow, dependent on your skin resistance. This current can be anything between tens of microamps (some buzzing feeling in that particular limb) to tens of milliamps (hurts a lot, may even kill), but in any case not enough to blow even a 2A fuse.
Only if you then have another device which is properly powered (not connected to the same faulty socket) and hence its chassis _is_ correctly grounded _and_ you have a cable between them that connects both chassis (via cable shielding) you now have a hard short between live and ground, and the fuse/breaker will blow/trip.
[0] Little Rubber Feet, parts that support quite a lot of computing equipment.
[live and earth swapped at the socket] How did that not trip a fuse?
As long as nothing gets plugged in and no-one touching those ground prongs, nobody would probably notice.
If you do plug in a device you get several possibilities. Non-grounded devices like a lamp or a shaver would simply not work, being fed the voltage difference between neutral and ground, which might be a few volts at most. With a grounded device its chassis would become live (and it would still not work as per previous), but depending on what it's standing on, any connections to a correctly grounded device and/or someone actually being able to touch a bare part of its chassis this may or may not cause a short. Zapping a person would not blow a fuse anyway, only tripping a GFCI if those are installed.
Light up screwdrivers can be lethal; they've been banned everywhere I worked in the last thirty years.
Workplace rules, I take it?
I've got two made by PB Swiss and VDE certified. With those I can't see a way for the limiting resistor to get bypassed by the leads on the neon bulb, but it's certainly possible with those hardware chain store cheapies. There are also the annoyingly similar low-voltage ones for use with car electrics. Those are fitted with a filament bulb, a pigtail ground lead and no limiting resistor at all (whose value would be too low to do anything regarding human bodies and mains voltage)
If it's PE and cracked / damaged,
Doesn't look damaged, but it's friction fit with a nut pressing down on a tapered seal. If the pipe end that sits inside the joint hasn't gone in far enough (cut too short/the other part sits too low) the seal will have insufficient friction against the pipe and will come loose if you dare to even look at it.
Properly installed they tend to hold up well, although the entire assembly is still somewhat flexible. This can be an advantage, but it also allows the joint to work itself loose over time unless restrained.
In this case the joint was not properly installed.
On a practical level, the signal to the boiler is a yes/no from the Hive
Eh, modern boilers communicate with modern thermostats in more sophisticated[0] ways than a simple on/off, although almost all boilers will fall back to on/off if you hook up an old-fashioned on/off thermostat.
[0] usually proprietary, though often reverse-engineered.
Especially when there are deserving people out there who need my money and can do a far, far better job than I could ever do.
So far I've only had four jobs done by others: replacing the central heating unit[0], changing two windows to double glazing, insulating the roof including removing two skylights and replacing three more, and putting up two dozen solar panels. All the other construction work I've been doing myself, with my GF doing tiling and painting and other such finishing jobs, plus helping with the ones where you need more than two hands, such as putting the bathtub in.
And one of the reasons for doing it myself is that most jobs are somewhat iintertwined, so you can't easily have a particular one done by, for instance, a plumber doing all the plumbing in a couple of days while having full access to wherever he needs to get at.
[0] in January. You really want to get that done in just one day, or less if possible. And it required moving the gas line as well.
We were on holiday in Curacao about ten years back. Had a good meal at a small restaurant, and my GF mentioned to the owner that it would quite likely improve business having it easily recognisable as a restaurant from the road. "Yes", the owner sighed, "I've tried to get a mural made, but either they come and say they will do one, or they don't, but that's as far as any of them have gotten.".
"Oh, it's my business at home, and for the cost of materials, another such a meal and a little money I'll put one up. Because I think it's a pity that you can hardly see this being a restaurant."
So a few days later: this
Depends on what your path to neutral/ground is. Standing on a dry, wooden stepladder plus non-conducting footwear will keep you from being zapped, even though they may not be fully approved stuff.
And my own skin resistance is high enough (when dry) that I barely notice a wire being live even when touching it directly. Not that I do so out of habit, but if simply touching 220V (back then, 230V now) would have killed me, as stated above, I'd be dead more than a hundred times over.
Which I think I'm not.
I occasionally switch off a circuit by tripping[0] its[1] GFCI. Which you're supposed to test regularly anyway, so that can be ticked off too.
[0] Using a Benning Duspol (or similar) you check between live and earth, then simultaneously push a button on both probes.
[1] individual CFCI/CB combination unit per circuit
Something similar happened to me - but with a wall, not a socket.
An uncle and his family would be moving shortly, and I was helping getting the target house ready by hanging the ceiling lights and such. In one of the rooms I had the odd sensation of feeling a bit of AC when touching a wall close to one of the wall sockets. Touching the (unpainted) radiator valve I could get one of those neon voltage probe screwdrivers to light up; the indication was strongest right where the conduit for the wiring would be, falling off when probing the wall a bit further away. On showing, my uncle agreed that this was Not At All Right, and allowed me to extricate the conduit from the freshly-plastered wall.
It turned out to be a metal conduit (common for a house built in the 1950's), and the plasterers had clearly wielded their Hilti with great gusto but with less attention regarding not hitting the conduit, which was damaged over the entire length from socket to ceiling. And inside it the wiring had also been damaged; not enough to cause a hard short, but the leakage current could make a small bulb dimly glow when I tested some more (no GFCI back then)
We have one that's not actually a bar heater; rather a casing of chamotte stones with a bunch of heater elements inside. Dimensions are roughly those of a tower case, a bit lower and wider. It heats really nicely, much more convection and less radiation than bar heaters. It's a holdover from when we lived in a building that had a broken central heating system and no other option to keep us from freezing than electrical. Other holdovers are two 1950's/1960's Magicoal heaters and an UFO-like ventilator heater.
surely enough people die and leave one behind
They clearly don't do so in a timely enough manner. In addition to that, even if they had just two kids those will have gotten shacked up, had kids of their own and then divorced, which seems a most common scenario. That divorce means you now need one extra house.
Pity the artist isn't aware of the latest way to save the environment
In a couple of years we'll be all going back, eh, forward to electrical heating to augment our heat pumps and geothermal, ditching oil and gas powered central heating systems and boilers.
And those vintage incandescents will make a glorious comeback.
Unless that rental shop also offers a wide selection of household goods, computers and parts, car accessories, in short close to everything including a kitchen sink, and keeps shoving ads at you for items, ahem, related to your rental history, I see that as a very minor problem.
my first association was that there would be a small motor inside the cross that moved the beads along, and the cross being part of the stand. Because, progress. After all, Buddhists have their wind- and water-powered prayer wheels, that pray without further human intervention, so why not an autonomous rosary?
Apparently he invented the first Wikipedia,
Unless anyone could have edited or added to its contents it would at best be just an encyclopedia, not a wikipedia.
And I very much doubt that there were more than just a select few editors involved, if it wasn't old Ididore on his own.
Teasmade, you heathen.
The Teasmaid proves that there is a market for totally useless appliances.
It's an alarm clock that makes tea for you to wake up to.. Instead of a nasty ringer you get the creak of the clockwork, the water starting to boil, the hissing of steam and at the end a nasty buzzer.
All the other steps you mention you would have to do anyway, It also saves you from having to deal with boiling water before being fully woken up.
So even if you are at the bottom of the tower it is still a distance from you.
Even more contributing is the antenna's radiation pattern. [1..n]G masts, as well as most WiFi APs and the like have an elevation pattern looking like a pillow, or even a pancake. Which makes sense as there's no point in sending energy upwards, especially straight up, if there's no client that way. And as elevation patterns are mirrored along the horizontal (or rather along the main elevation lobe, which _can_ be tilted) there's also very little energy going down.
Which caused mobile coverage to be rather shit with our previous provider, whose antennas were on top of our office.